New SS24 Saint Laurent Gives Menswear in Berlin

April 22, 2023 0 Comments

Those who hoped That Anthony Vaccarello would present Saint Laurent’s menswear on the Berlin club scene might not get tired of it on Monday evening at the presentation of the French luxury brand’s SS24 collection in the German capital. Instead of the trendy Berghain nightclub, the designer chose a familiar building and showed a collection that blurred the boundaries of masculinity and femininity.

The collection with the fascinating name “everyone finishs the thing they love” was presented at the famous Berlin art Museum “Neue Nationalgalerie”. The architectural masterpiece, a glass pavilion topped with a steel roof, was the last major construction project of the architect Mies van der Rohe. The location, whose nooks and crannies seemed to resemble the making of a jacket, offered guests on Monday evening not only a glimpse of the latest Saint Laurent presentation, but also of the setting sun of Berlin.

The Looks of the collection were – in many ways – self-referential. Vaccarello followed in the footsteps of Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic Tuxedo, a garment that challenged the notions of femininity and masculinity as early as 1966, but which was also a clear continuation of last Season – for men’s and women’s clothing.

Deja vu and shoulders like a attractive Frankenstein
For some time now, Saint Laurent’s men’s fashion seems to have been inspired by women’s fashion and vice versa. Vaccarello opened the Spring/Summer 2024 show in Berlin with a range of Looks that, at first glance, almost evoked a déjà Vu because they were directly related to last Season’s women’s fashion.

Strongly accentuated shoulders, reminiscent of a attractive Frankenstein, were paired with high-waisted slim trousers and heeled boots. The pants became a little wider as the show progressed, while the formal shirts gave way to transparent blouses and low-cut tank tops made of cotton and silk.

In addition to a sensual mix of transparent materials – often with polka dots and leopard prints-there was silk, Satin and also Chiffon, a fabric firmly rooted in Haute Couture. These fluid materials added lightness to jackets with thin stripes or those in deep black. In addition, strict bow ties contrasted on the shirt collars with halters and off-the-shoulder tops that emphasized the wearer’s collarbone – charms usually saved in the traditional world of men’s fashion.

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